Lovely stands of fragrant Paperwhites, spectacular pots of Amaryllis and colorful displays of poinsettias are Nature's way of saying, “Happy Holidays!” But once the New Year is ushered in and they (like post-holiday humans) start looking peaked, what do you do? Rather than toss them in the compost, many of the most popular types of holiday plants can be “repurposed” by taking them outdoors and adding them to your garden. They will regain their vigor and return to bloom again and again for years to come.
Paperwhites: Narcissus papyraceus
These perennial bulbs are native to the Mediterranean and therefore, they do not need chilling to bloom. They are hardy, reliable, gopher proof and do not need irrigation—all of which makes them perfect garden additions for our mild winter climate. After the blooms in your indoor arrangement fade, simply remove the bulbs (with stems attached) from their container. Find a sunny spot with good drainage and plant them about one bulb's length deep and one bulb's width apart. The stems will provide the bulbs with nourishment for the next blooming season and will also prompt the bulbs to
divide and naturalize. Resist tying the stems in knots. Instead, allow them to dry out and fall to enrich the soil. Note: if the bulbs in your indoor arrangement were forced, your Paperwhites may not bloom the first year after planting but be patient and look for them early the following year.
Amaryllis
Those dramatic, trumpet-shaped blooms that we know as “Amaryllis” are cultivars of the genus Hippeastrum, which originated in South America. The true Amaryllis, Amaryllis belladonna, is a South African native. We know them as the fragrant pink “Naked Ladies” that appear in our area during the summer. In this article, we will stick with the name “Amaryllis” for the more than 600 colorful varieties of holiday blooming bulbs.
As exotic as they look, Amaryllis bulbs are quite easy to grow and, properly cared for, can live for 75 years. They are well suited to USDA Hardiness Zone 10a, the designation for our temperate coastal area. Some varieties reproduce readily from seed and naturalize quickly once they are planted in the ground. Once established, your holiday Amaryllis will also revert to its natural blooming cycle in the spring.
When you are ready to plant, find a sunny location with good drainage. These plants are spectacular in groups so pick a spot with enough room for next year's additions. Place the bulb along with any remaining foliage in the soil leaving about one third of the pointed top exposed. If planting more than one bulb, plant them about 12 inches apart. Apply a thin layer of compost around (not on) the bulbs and mulch lightly. If there is no rain, apply just enough water to keep the soil moist until leaves emerge. Once established, Amaryllis are drought tolerant and deer proof.
Poinsettias Euphorbia pulcherrima
These seasonal icons are indigenous to Mexico and are named for Joel Roberts Poinsett, first U.S. Minister to Mexico, who introduced them to the U.S. in the 1820's. Now, more than 70 million poinsettias are sold as decorations. But nothing says, “The holidays are over” like a withered, sad looking one of these once-brilliant plants. Most of them end
up getting tossed, hopefully into the compost. With good care (keep it warm, place it in a sunny spot, water it frequently and allow the pot to drain thoroughly), poinsettias can stay looking good inside your home for a couple of months.
If you like a bit of a challenge, you can get poinsettias to re-bloom in time for next year's holiday season. Starting in early spring (late February or early March), prune the stems back to about 4 to 6 inches above the soil in the pot. Water when the surface of the soil is dry to the touch and give it a dose of diluted all-purpose plant fertilizer every two
weeks.
When the weather warms up (mid to late May) begin acclimating the poinsettia plant to the outdoors. Start by placing it in a shady, protected spot for a few days then move it gradually to areas where it can receive periods of direct sun. This process (called “hardening”) will take about 7 to 10 days. Next, find a spot in your garden that is out of the wind and receives a minimum of 6-8 hours of sunlight. Dig a hole and set the poinsettia (pot and all) into the ground. Continue to water and fertilize as before.As new growth appears, pinch or cut back tips of the new shoots once or twice to keep
the plant compact and bushy. Around the middle of September, remove the plant and pot from its earthly spot and move it back indoors to a bright, sunny location. To get your poinsettia to “flower” (produce the colorful red “bracts”) in time for December holidays, the plant must be in the dark for about 15 hours every day starting in October. An easy way to do this is to place a cardboard box over the plant every day at approximately 5 p.m. and remove it at around 8 a.m. the following morning. By Thanksgiving, your poinsettia should be looking very festive and you can recycle the box.
Additional Resource
Orchids: Year-Round Favorites: These exotic beauties add instant décor and make great gifts. Chances are good that you have either purchased or been presented with an orchid or two over the holidays. For details on keeping the orchids in
your home healthy and blooming, please see the November, 2021, issue of Coastside Magazine.
This article was written by Maggie Mah, a UC Master Gardener with many Paperwhites and Amaryllis in her garden and edited by UC Master Gardener Cynthia Nations.
